"All the good stuff"

“Offal”  - the entrails and internal organs of a butchered animal

The term is popping up everywhere.  Restaurants all over NYC and the rest of the country are now proudly displaying menus that contain words like liver, sweetbreads, and marrow.  When you say the word “offal” or the term “nose-to-tail” to a serious foodie they immediately think of Chef Fergus Henderson, chef and owner of Restaurant St. John in London. 

Currently ranked number 41 of the world’s 50 best restaurants, St. John developed a cult following soon after opening in 1994.  Chef Henderson was serving cuts of meat rarely seen in other restaurants.  While visiting between multi-starred Michelin restaurants around Europe, chefs and serious foodies alike ventured out to St. John in London for a taste out of the ordinary, and to buy a copy of “The Whole Beast”, the restaurants cookbook.  For ten years St. John was the only place in the world you could buy a copy, and this book was to offal lovers what El Bulli’s cookbooks were to fans of molecular gastronomy. 

In 2004 “The Whole Beast” finally became available in the United States.  Almost immediately restaurants all over NY, as well as the rest of the country, started to take once discarded pieces of vegetables and animals, and making them the forefront of the plate.  In an economy shifting towards being more efficient, less wasteful, and more economical, it was no surprise that this low budget, adventurous type of eating finally caught on.  What most people don’t realize, though, is that 1) our ancestors have been relying on these cuts of protein to feed their families for centuries, and 2) you’ve probably been eating offal your whole life and not aware of it. 

Tabla through my eyes

I am sad to say that my once favorite NYC restaurant is now closed.  Tabla had a magnificent twelve year run, and I am lucky enough to once call it my home away from home for 3 ½ years.  This restaurant shaped me into the chef I am today, and I’d like to share my story. 

The years leading up to Tabla…

When I was a young cook starting out in this industry I had no desire to work in NYC.  Through school I did my externship at a very well known two star NYC restaurant, which shall remain unnamed.  Externs in general are picked on at all restaurants.  Coming straight out of school they learn very quickly that they do not know everything, it is very easy to make mistakes, and it takes a lot of hard work, dedication, and patience to make it in this industry.  

I was so anxious to be in a professional kitchen for the first time, but that feeling quickly turned into disgust.  As the three months of unpaid work progressed, I learned that all these cooks were just drones.  None of them had any fire in them, no desire to be there.  There was a lack of teamwork.  They were always angry, and obviously took it out on the new guy. 

Luckily, the two chef de cuisines realized my potential and hired me after my three month externship.  I was ecstatic to have found a job in what many people considered to be a great restaurant, regardless of what I thought of my coworkers.  That all changed when I quit three weeks later. 

After two weeks of full time work, I never received my first paycheck.  One of the chefs told me there was most likely a glitch in the computer system and promised I would receive two paychecks the following week.  As the third week ended, the problem persisted.  This time I decided to talk to the other chef, who informed me he had no idea that I was not receiving my paychecks.  He then gave me the cold shoulder, and told me to come back and talk to him the following day.  I was so angry, so hurt, so confused about the communication between upper management.  I remember I went home that night, and I never returned again. 

Was this what it was like to work in a top restaurant in NY? 

Bone marrow at Casa Mono

It really is amazing when you think about the NYC food scene.  With close to 25,000 restaurants, it is very hard not to find what you’re craving.  With new restaurants popping up all the time (close to 5000 in just 4 years), anything you can’t find will soon become available. 

So what’s my favorite dish in NYC?  It’s the “Roasted bone marrow with radishes”, on the menu at Casa Mono. 

Roasted bone marrow, pan con tomate, parsley and radish salad

Casa Mono is a small Spanish restaurant in Mario Batali’s huge Italian empire.  It has about ten tables, and a handful of bar stools overlooking an open kitchen, or a wine bar depending on which way you’re facing.  If you decide to try it out, I recommend going during lunch or off-peak hours between 3pm and 5pm, because the line is out the door once dinner starts. 

Au Pied de Cochon

It just made sense to me to make my first real post about my favorite restaurant.  It’s called Au Pied de Cochon (or PDC for short), and it is located in Montreal, Quebec.  If you have not heard of it, the Chef’s name is Martin Picard, and he specializes in everything related to foie gras, pork, duck, and fat.  How could this not be MY favorite restaurant in the world?  This is truly a gastronomic destination. 

The restaurant is very easy to miss the first time you walk by it.  The only visible signs are located on a high window.  I don’t think it is much concern to Chef Picard, though, because the restaurant is packed every night.  I have eaten there a total of five times, and was able to get a reservation only once.  I have realized as a single diner, your best bet is to walk in once they open, and grab a seat in front of the open kitchen. 

The entrance way is very tiny.  I was greeted by two hostesses and sat in the "special seat" at the bar.  When Au Pied De Cochon opened in 2003 Martin Picard asked for donations because he couldn't afford to buy all the seats he needed at the bar.  The result was three hunters donated three chairs that looked VERY out of place, but are very cool in their own sense.  I felt lucky to sit in the last one standing, which was wrapped in gold antlers. 

When you walk in you immediately pass by their seafood tank, and then a huge array of market produce before making your way to your seat.  So many fresh tomatoes, turnips, apples, and so forth just on display.  The tank hides the pizza oven area, where two cooks prepare the large items like the guinea hen for 2, pork loin for 2, and the lamb shank.  PDC bakes their bread fresh daily, and also had eight of their fresh sourdoughs attached to what looks like a giant spear on a counter table.  Unlike most restaurants, the FOH team is very involved with the daily routines of the kitchen.  I witnessed my kitchen runner slicing fresh sourdough to order, as well as others peeling and shelling fresh cranberry beans.