Animal

The front of restaurant Animal (via Eater.com)

For weeks leading up to my first trip to Los Angeles I couldn't help but constantly think about Restaurant Animal.  It was first opened in 2008 by Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo.  You may recognize these punk rockers from Food Network's "Two Dudes Catering".  Soon after opening Animal and losing the catering business, they grew to national culinary fame with their small meat and offal-centric, 45-seat nondescript restaurant, even being awarded some of Food & Wine's Best New Chefs title of 2009.

I first met Jon and Vinny at Meattopia 2011.  By now I knew of their reputation, after watching them on Food Network and skimming through their cookbook from time to time.  Although they don't match any type of contemporary look for chefs, one thing is for sure, these guys know how to cook, and they can cook pretty damn well.  

Lamb Head Skull, the only decor on the walls

Animal was inspired by trips to Martin Picard's Au Pied de Cochon in Montreal, and Fergus Henderson's St. John in London.  Their chicken hearts with burnt eggplant puree that I tasted at Meattopia was just a teaser for things to come.    For now I am finally here in Los Angeles.  Looking at the no-name restaurant with black beams, full wall-size windows, and the numbers 435 across the top from across the street, I became a giddy schoolboy.  Come on Chef Floyd Cardoz, it's time to eat.  

The decor of Animal is very minimal, with nothing more on the walls than a lamb head skull.  A small bar in the back of the room provides the only color contrast to a small restaurant with wooden tables and beige walls.  Forget about it, though, you're not here for tablecloth wine service.  Take one look at Animal's menu and be prepared for the rich, fatty, spicy, fresh, well-balanced meal to come.

The menu at Animal

We started off with the Hamachi Tostada.  I have never had any dish that provided so much flavor and crunch with every bite.  The hamachi laid upon a bed of creamy avocado, which was propped up on a fried tortilla.  This was all hidden under a mound of green cabbage, mixed with fish sauce vinaigrette and peanuts.  Fried shallots garnished the dish.  Everything tasted as if it were cut and fried right before being delivered to the table.  

Hamachi Tostada

Next was Calamari with Harissa and Merguez.  A beautiful presentation.  The squid was flash fried, and mixed with fava beans, merguez sausage, pickled onions, citrus zest, and garnished with beautiful flowers from the local market.  Two dishes in I'm beginning to see why California is known for their great produce.  I was godsmacked by how fresh everything tasted.  Just look at the color of those fava beans alone.  

Local Squid with Harissa and Lamb Sausage

The harissa pools on the side of the plate, varying the heat degree as you wish

Chicken Fried Sweetbreads with Charred Romaine and Crawfish was next for us.  Once again, absolutely beautiful presentation.  The sweetbreads were cut small, fried to golden-brown perfection, and matched with grilled romaine hearts and crawfish that were coated in a spicy, sweet, acidic vinaigrette.  A white sauce that almost tasted like a thinned ranch sauce specked the bottom of the plate.  This dish had everything.  Sweet, sour, crunchy, gamey, spicy, salty, and even a miniscule cooling effect.  I am in awe, and we're only 3 dishes in.  

Chicken Fried Sweetbreads with Charred Romaine and Crawfish xo

Veal Tongue with Smoked Foie Gras, Burnt Mustard Puree, and Crabapple.  This dish was the chef's play on a pastrami sandwich.  Pumpernickel croutons added a crunch to a bitter mustard puree, matched with the creaminess and smokiness of foie gras sorbet.  The veal tongue was also smoked and sliced, and the pastrami spices gave it depth.  The crabapple added that small sour note, and maple syrup gave it the sweetness that rounded out the dish. It was very good, though both I and Chef Cardoz agreed the foie gras was not needed here.

Veal Tongue with Smoked Foie Gras and Burnt Mustard Puree

Pork Belly Sliders.  Holy, effing, cow.  These sliders were a heart attack in a bun.  Two thick slices of confited pork belly sat inside two soft broiche slider buns with coleslaw.  These brought bbq pork sliders to a whole new level.  Just biting into these beauties released warm pork juices onto your plate.  I still remember the huge smile on my face.

Pork Belly Sliders

Marrow Bone with Chimichurri and Caramelized Onions.  Even though the idea was great, this dish fell short on so many levels.  A complete letdown, as a I am a huge marrow fan.  The dish lacked salt and acidity all around.  I do not recommend getting it if you dine at Animal.

Marrow Bone with Chimichurri

"Buffalo Style" Pig Tails with Celery and Ranch.  I first saw this signature dish of theirs on Food Network's "Best Things I Ever Ate".  Iron Chef Michael Symon loved these, and did an entire presentation dedicated to visiting Animal and chewing on these braised beauties.  The pig tails are brined overnight, then braised and fried to a crunchy perfection.  They are then mixed with their secret buffalo sauce and garnished with celery leaves, radish, pickled peppers, chives, and ranch.  There's not much meat on them, but they are so very good.

"Buffalo Style" Pig Tails with Celery and Ranch

Softshell Crab with Scrambled Eggs and Salsa Macho.  This was our second least favorite dish of the night, which was terrible because we are both huge fans of softshell crab.  Here, the softshell is battered and fried, and sits atop a large, creamy mound of scrambled eggs.  The sauce that attempts to bring it all together is salsa macho, which is a very, very hot habanero hot sauce.  It blew both of our palates out, as the dish did not come together whatsoever.  Black radish and a huge garlic scape garnished the dish, but did not nothing to soothe the burning sensation we both felt.  And for those that are wondering, yes we do love spicy foods.

Softshell Crab with Scrambled Eggs and Salsa Macho

I saved the best for last.  Foie Gras with Biscuit and Maple Sausage Gravy.  HOLY.  FUCKING.  CRAP.  This was by far the best tasting foie gras dish I have ever had.  Seared foie.  Soft, warm, housemade biscuit. Sweet maple gravy.  This dish had everything every foie lover could crave.  If you don't believe me, just look at Chef Cardoz's face.

Chef Floyd Cardoz, Top Chef Masters Season 3 Winner, with a huge smile

My mouth is still watering from thinking about it.  We both agreed this dish was sheer perfection, and the only thing that could take it to the next level was maybe, just maybe a drizzle of aged balsamic vinegar over the top.  I can die and go to the heavens at this moment, as I've already tasted them.  (Update:  Due to the current foie gras ban in California, this dish is no longer on the menu.)

Foie Gras, Biscuit, Maple Sausage Gravy

We were both incredibly full at this point, but the kitchen decided to send out desserts compliments on them anyway.  Hey, if you're going to go eat with a Top Chef Master, might as well enjoy the perks.

The tres leches with dulce de leche was decadent.  So much flavor packed into a small square.

Tres Leches with Dulce de Leche

But the real star of dessert were the Fresh Berries.  These were fresh into season, mixed with vanilla custard, a lavender crumble, and opal basil.  The whole dish just screamed greenmarket fresh.  A perfect ending to the meal.

Fresh Berries with Lavendar Crumble, Vanilla Custard, and Opal Basil

If you're not an adventurous meat eater, then you should most likely make your way into Jon and Vinny's second restaurant "Son of a Gun", which opened last year, and has a more seafood-centric menu.  Either way, definitely try one of their restaurants, as these guys are definitely putting a lot of heart into their cooking.

Animal

435 North Fairfax Avenue

Los Angeles, CA 90036