Aldea

I kicked off summer restaurant week this year with my first visit to Aldea, the small, elegant, Portugese-inspired restaurant of Chef George Mendes.  George, who was recently a contestant on Top Chef Masters Season 3, opened Aldea in 2009.  Only two years later he was awarded the coveted "Best New Chef" title from Food & Wine magazine.

Chef Mendes knew from a very early age that he wanted to become a chef.  He now sources fresh ingredients that are in season and builds a daily-changing menu at Aldea to showcase them.  Over the past three years Aldea has been named one of the most cutting edge restaurants in New York City today.  It this reputation which caused me to come in this afternoon.

While walking down 17th street the blue and white "Aldea" sign gives you a soothing welcome.  Once upon entering through the clear door the hostess greeted me and asked me where I'd prefer to sit.  To my surprise Aldea has an open kitchen, and now knowing that information, had no hesitation in saying I would love to sit at the dining counter overlooking it.  As she lead me to my seat I walked past Chef Mendes himself leaning over the bar making some phone calls.  It's always a good sign when you have the presence of the chef in the restaurant.

At first glance the restaurant evokes a feeling of warmth.  The blue and white color scheme stretches into the restaurant from front to back, and is said to be designed after the Iberian coastline.  Images of air, water, land, clouds, and wind bring you on the same journey Chef Mendes embarked on as a young man through that very coastline.  On this visit I also noticed that not many people were embarking on that journey.

Aldea's open kitchen from view of the dining counter

I finally sat down at the wooden dining counter overlooking the kitchen, and immediately felt at ease.  The tattooed line cook peeling and slicing onions, the young protege straight out of culinary school working Garde Manger that has yet to learn "the dance", the Executive Sous Chef calling out orders and orchestrating the kitchen, the young pastry cook working silently in the back, the kitchen porter carrying plates and restocking stations, the sound of a plate breaking echoing into the dining room, it all was a familiar environment that I can never stop watching.

The kitchen welcomed me with a few small bites to start.  A food runner sneaks up alongside me holding a rectangular plate with a small macaroon "sandwich" filled with pineapple granite.  "Pick it up with your hands", he requests me, and with one small interactive bite, was now very much looking forward to the meal that followed.

Tasting of Tomato Gazpacho with Frozen Ricotta and Strawberries

A demitasse cup of tomato gazpacho which I saw the young protege plate made its way to me next.  With shaky hands he managed to garnish the soup with frozen ricotta, chili, and strawberries.  A dot of what seemingly looked like mint oil also pooled its way to the top.  One sip and a few bites later all the flavors melted together on my palate and I thanked the kitchen for their welcoming hospitality.

Having three courses at only $24.07 prompted me to order an extra appetizer off the a la carte menu.  A large plate of thinly sliced serrano ham and pan con tomate made me smile like a schoolboy.  However, after first bite I could not feel but a bit underwhelmed.  It needed more, such as the distinct bite of black peppercorns crackling freshly from a pepper mill, and the flavors of fresh-pressed olives from a regional Spanish olive oil.

The Serrano Ham needed a touch of Black Pepper and Olive Oil

The "Rustic Pork and Duck Terrine" sounded amazing on the menu.  Served with a small mound of freshly dressed greens, toasted bread, and muscat wine gelee.  Although a little dry the terrine had great flavor, only enhanced by the crunch of the fresh toasted bread and acidity of the salad greens.  I couldn't help but drizzle some of the olive oil served with my table bread onto it.  The wine gelee was a contrasting bitter flavor and I couldn't see myself eating more than just one bite.  I cleaned the whole plate but left the gelee untouched.

Rustic Pork and Duck Terrine

Being a big fan of skatewing it was a no-brainer for me to order the "Skate Wing 'A La Plancha'".  Seeing the young cook season and sear the generous portion of fish on high heat to an impressively perfect golden-brown made me wide-eyed.  A young lady assembled the summer zucchini and favas in a saute pan and warmed them through.  The Executive Sous Chef then brought all the components together on a warmed entree plate and garnished with a brown-butter crumble.  The food runner placed the dish in front of me...and I was confused.

Though advertising summer zucchini and favas my skate was served with asparagus and peas.  Asparagus, which goes out of season by early summer, is no longer found anywhere locally, and Chef Mendes' philosophy of eating locally and fresh was not coming through with this dish at first glance whatsoever.  I had a similar problem dining at David Burke Kitchen last summer, but today was Wednesday, a greenmarket day.  You can't allow me to buy the excuse that you couldn't pick up summer zucchini four blocks away from the bounty of vegetables available at the Union Square Greenmarket.

Skate Wing A La Plancha with "Summer Zucchini and Favas"

Getting past my own prejudices I picked up my fork and cut into the skate.  Tender and collapsing to the touch I was surprised by how much incredible flavor the fish had.  The brown-butter crumble was so pleasant and enhanced the fish perfectly.  I guess I'll finish off the asparagus and peas as well.

A small dessert amuse of coconut sorbet was made personally for me next.  Garnished with blueberry granite, lime zest, and frozen blueberries.  It was incredibly refreshing and a great presentation.

Coconut Sorbet with Blueberry and Lime Zest

The restaurant week dessert consisted of yogurt panna cotta with blueberry compote, and dollops of lemon sauce.  Although a similar repeat of the amuse, I didn't mind as it is blueberry season, and I love, love, love blueberries.

Yogurt Panna Cotta with Lemon and Blueberry Compote

After talking with numerous fellow colleagues about my meal at Aldea they all seemed to have the same result at the end of our conversations.  Although good, Aldea does not live up to the hype that precedes it.  If you are looking to have a nice evening out in a beautiful space with great service, Aldea should be one of the top restaurants you should consider.  However, if you are looking for that "cutting-edge" meal that so many people have branded this restaurant with, this is not the place for you.

Aldea

31 West 17th Street

New York, NY 10011