Aug 4, 2012

Swine

"Not another one!"

When news broke out on Eater.com that Swine, a new pork-centric restaurant located in the West Village, was about to debut, it wasn't exactly welcomed with praise by commentors.  "Another pork restaurant?  How innovative.."  "Yawn."  "I guess they could have just called it 'No Jews.'"

Even though on the downwards part of the slope now, pork is still very much in demand in NYC.  So many restaurants have popped up that offer pork-centric menus, housemade charcuterie, nose-to-tail feasts, and great beers.  Back in 2007, Resto was at the forefront of this movement.  Fast forward five years, and it seems NYC is starting to get tired of the trend.

One thing I love to do is ignore what the mass population says and try out a restaurant for myself before forming an opinion.  In the case of Swine, I am more than happy that I did, because even though its not a new concept, even though its not innovative in any way whatsoever, it delivers a meal that is executed perfectly.  Sometimes, that's really all that matters. The flavors speak for themselves and nothing is effed with.  If you're a fan of offal, charcuterie, and cheeses, definitely make your way in.  Chef Phil Conlon delivers, and this restaurant is not a gimmick.

Located on Hudson Street, right next door to Red Farm and a block away from Takashi, Swine is easily found because of its large blue awning stretching out onto the sidewalk.  A very small hostess stands awaits you on the other side of the entrance, on a small floor in between the bar (top floor) and main dining room (located in the basement).  Although the decor is indescript and pretty much what you expect from a restaurant like this located in the West Village, the food and drinks are really why you're here.



*I do want to note I highly apologize for the lack of good pictures in this post.  As noted earlier the beers are worth coming for, and I was slightly intoxicated and wasn't paying much attention.  Any jokes about pictures being taken with a 2-bit camera are welcomed in the comments section.*

The menu is fairly large considering the size of the restaurant.  Close to fifty items are presented separated by sections.  Snacks, toasts, small plates, large plates, salumi, charcuterie, cheeses, pickles, condiments, and sides, each offering 4-10 items each.  Even if you don't eat pork, the menu at Swine is very diverse in its meat selection and there is plenty to choose from.

I started the night off with the foie gras torchon.  For $10, it was exactly the size I was expecting it to be, and  did a great job in satisfying my foie craving for the night.  It was very simplistic, garnished with just a touch of muldon, and served with a few slices of toast and a plum chutney.
Foie Gras Torchon with Plum Chutney
Their bone marrow is what made my jaw drop.  The dish is served on a giant wooden plank, with two pieces of marrow that are easily one foot each.  If you're watching your cholesterol, this is not for you.  But if you're not, for $12 this easily ranks among the top marrow dishes I have had in NYC.  Yes, even better than Casa Mono's, who after a few years, finally changed its garnishes for the dish and disappointed me with the new flavors.  Swine's marrow is served with toast and a French-style salsa verde.  Though I had a dish similar to this at Animal, this version actually had flavor.  And there was so much of it.
Bone Marrow with French-style Salsa Verde
The deviled eggs are nothing special, but for $3 a great snack to have for yourself or to share.  A touch of cayenne lifted their flavor profile to where it needed to be.
Deviled Eggs
I finished with the small plate of ricotta, house-made from local cow's milk.  The cheese is also served with a few slices of toast (I can't imagine how much bread they go through here on a nightly basis), and a smoked pepper jam.  Perfect substitution for a dessert.
House-made Ricotta with Smoked Pepper Jam
A new friend I met at the bar was nice enough to let me try the pork belly plate he ordered.  If you notice, I didn't order one pork plate for myself, but if the other pork dishes are as good as the pork belly, Swine is definitely deserving of its name.  It had incredible crunch from crispy skin, and the sweet chili glaze created a perfect bite.  I definitely recommend it.

Definitely a great addition to the city and neighborhood, Swine is a great place for people to meet for drinks and food.  For the prices, I didn't feel ripped off and left very satisfied.  Swine's bone marrow & brisket burger also received a nomination for being one of the top ten burgers in NYC.  Considering Swine has only been open for about two months now, it seems as though its a name we'll be seeing in many more headlines in the months to come.

Swine
531 Hudson Street
New York, NY 10014

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