It’s not very often that I disagree with a NY Times review, but so is the case when it comes to dining at Lyon.
Lyon is located in the heart of the West Village, seen easily anywhere on the street by the bright yellow and white light-up sign hanging over the sidewalk. Walking into Lyon you’re immediately transported into a classic French bistro. The room is bright, especially during the day as the large windows allow natural sunlight to shine on the dark woodwork running through the room, offset slightly by a hue of red. The color scheme then carries over to the red-and-white picnic blanket style napkins, also displayed proudly by the service staff uniforms.
My only complaint about the décor is that the tables for two are packed so tightly together. So tight that the entire table has to be removed for the patron that is seated against the wall to get in or out. Make sure they make a bathroom trip before the meal starts, because it’s damn near impossible for them to be removed once the table is full of food and drink. In fact, everyone should make a trip to the restrooms, which are located in the basement. Every wall displays colorful classic French cartoons. Your friend taking too long? No problem, amuse yourself with the “Adventures of Asterix”. Your friend is most likely doing the same inside the stall.
The Executive Chef here is Chris Leahy, who opened Lyon with business partners Francoise Latapie and Penny Bradley. Of Irish background, Chris has a very impressive cooking background training under some of the best chefs across the country, and his heart lies in classical French cooking.
