Opening North End Grill

Note:  This story is a continuation from Tabla Through My Eyes

In November 2010 Chef Floyd Cardoz had called me into his office along with the Chef de Cuisine Ty Kotz.  This was never a good scenario.  Being called into a private meeting with Chef and Ty never had a good outcome.  It not only meant I was about to get scolded for something, it meant I was about to get scolded for something so bad Chef Cardoz had to do it in private.

I slowly walked behind them, my short stature illusioning I was a kindergartner following my two teachers.  Closing the door I sat down quietly, awaiting my fate.  "I am going to be opening a new restaurant soon, and I would like for you to come work with me again."  Wait...what?  "It's not going to be like this.  The food will be different, the restaurant will be different."  "Of course I will Chef, I would love to open a restaurant with you!"  

Little did I know what was ahead of me.

Animal

The front of restaurant Animal (via Eater.com)

For weeks leading up to my first trip to Los Angeles I couldn't help but constantly think about Restaurant Animal.  It was first opened in 2008 by Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo.  You may recognize these punk rockers from Food Network's "Two Dudes Catering".  Soon after opening Animal and losing the catering business, they grew to national culinary fame with their small meat and offal-centric, 45-seat nondescript restaurant, even being awarded some of Food & Wine's Best New Chefs title of 2009.

I first met Jon and Vinny at Meattopia 2011.  By now I knew of their reputation, after watching them on Food Network and skimming through their cookbook from time to time.  Although they don't match any type of contemporary look for chefs, one thing is for sure, these guys know how to cook, and they can cook pretty damn well.  

Lamb Head Skull, the only decor on the walls

Animal was inspired by trips to Martin Picard's Au Pied de Cochon in Montreal, and Fergus Henderson's St. John in London.  Their chicken hearts with burnt eggplant puree that I tasted at Meattopia was just a teaser for things to come.    For now I am finally here in Los Angeles.  Looking at the no-name restaurant with black beams, full wall-size windows, and the numbers 435 across the top from across the street, I became a giddy schoolboy.  Come on Chef Floyd Cardoz, it's time to eat.  

The decor of Animal is very minimal, with nothing more on the walls than a lamb head skull.  A small bar in the back of the room provides the only color contrast to a small restaurant with wooden tables and beige walls.  Forget about it, though, you're not here for tablecloth wine service.  Take one look at Animal's menu and be prepared for the rich, fatty, spicy, fresh, well-balanced meal to come.

Meatopia 2011

"The Woodstock of Edible Animals"

Floyd Cardoz and Joshua Ozersky

The name says it all.  It's a festival of meat.  Every animal.  Every cut.  Every method of cookery.  If you're a meat lover, Meatopia is your heaven.  And that is exactly what it is to the founder of the event, Joshua Ozersky. 

Joshua is very well known in the food world as a food writer and meat lover.  He was one of the founding editors of Grub Street, has written two books including one on hamburgers and a carnivores guide to NY.  It is no surprise that he is the man that brought over forty chefs from all over the country to celebrate his favorite thing.  

Although many people think this year marked the second year of Meatopia, they are actually mistaken.  This event has now passed its seventh year, with the first five years being a small invitation-only event.  Every year was themed, and Joshua invited 5-7 chefs to cook pork, lamb, beef, etc. for about 200-300 guests.

Floyd Cardoz and I were invited to cook at Meatopia two years ago during the lamb event.  "Lamb Bam Thank You Ma'am" was the slogan.  We witnessed six chefs grilling whole baby lambs over spits.  Spraying and brushing the animals with marinades, and sitting back and waiting patiently for hours until the perfect doneness.  At the end of a long, hot day, the animals were brought over to picnic tables, and broken down to serve the diners. It was magical.

Tabla through my eyes

I am sad to say that my once favorite NYC restaurant is now closed.  Tabla had a magnificent twelve year run, and I am lucky enough to once call it my home away from home for 3 ½ years.  This restaurant shaped me into the chef I am today, and I’d like to share my story. 

The years leading up to Tabla…

When I was a young cook starting out in this industry I had no desire to work in NYC.  Through school I did my externship at a very well known two star NYC restaurant, which shall remain unnamed.  Externs in general are picked on at all restaurants.  Coming straight out of school they learn very quickly that they do not know everything, it is very easy to make mistakes, and it takes a lot of hard work, dedication, and patience to make it in this industry.  

I was so anxious to be in a professional kitchen for the first time, but that feeling quickly turned into disgust.  As the three months of unpaid work progressed, I learned that all these cooks were just drones.  None of them had any fire in them, no desire to be there.  There was a lack of teamwork.  They were always angry, and obviously took it out on the new guy. 

Luckily, the two chef de cuisines realized my potential and hired me after my three month externship.  I was ecstatic to have found a job in what many people considered to be a great restaurant, regardless of what I thought of my coworkers.  That all changed when I quit three weeks later. 

After two weeks of full time work, I never received my first paycheck.  One of the chefs told me there was most likely a glitch in the computer system and promised I would receive two paychecks the following week.  As the third week ended, the problem persisted.  This time I decided to talk to the other chef, who informed me he had no idea that I was not receiving my paychecks.  He then gave me the cold shoulder, and told me to come back and talk to him the following day.  I was so angry, so hurt, so confused about the communication between upper management.  I remember I went home that night, and I never returned again. 

Was this what it was like to work in a top restaurant in NY?