Showing posts with label offal. Show all posts
Showing posts with label offal. Show all posts

Sep 13, 2012

Bouley

Bouley's front door, currently hidden behind construction scaffolds
Walking into Bouley it doesn't take long to see just how much the dining scene of NYC has changed.  In a time when restaurant decors are designed and geared towards sleek minimalism, Bouley sits as a reminder, amongst very few others, of the opulent chambers one diner can be tucked away into.

Fresh apples line the wall, perfuming the entrance
From the front door you enter a vestibule of shelves upon shelves of fresh apples.  Perfuming the air transporting you to a fresh countryside orchard.  To the left a waiting room with the hostess stand up front.  A waiting room comprised of plush couches and chairs, floor to ceiling windows and artwork, exquisite chandeliers, and hardwood floors.  Before even entering the dining room you realize Bouley is a labor of obsessive love and care for guests.  This is not the waiting area comprised of a thin banquette set against the wall at your local Applebees.  

The large, romantic, dining room evokes the feeling of the French countryside.  Large Monet paintings, wrapped in velvet no-less, of orchards and wineries hang on the walls.  Fresh flowers sit atop every table that are dressed with rich, thick tablecloths.  Deep banquettes line the walls with plush pillows to cushion your back and to keep you from falling backwards.  A vaulted ceiling is brushed with gold leaf.  A fireplace and a library are tucked away in a darker, more seclusive secondary dining room towards the back of the room.  

Aug 30, 2012

Atera

**Note.  If you are planning on dining at Atera, I highly recommend eating the food before reading this post, as it will ruin a lot of surprises through the course of the meal**

It's amazing how many culinary trends New York City has undertaken in the past decade.  The fall of the twin towers caused the death of fine dining, where as a nation we turned to more economically feasible comfort food options.  We looked for menus that had a recognizable burger and french fries, instead of duck and foie gras.  Fast forward a few years and we became ready to play with our food, and all the emphasis was on molecular gastronomy and the multiple ways we could manipulate nature's ingredients.  Heston Blumenthal's Fat Duck in Bray, England, and Ferran Adria's El Bulli in Catalonia, Spain were the world's best known restaurants to showcase it.  When trendsetters like Alinea in Chicago, and WD-50 in New York City ran out of ideas, so did the city's interest with science.  We've seen it already, what can we do next?

Then out of nowhere the "fad" was a practice multiple chefs had been utilizing for years.  Relationships they had built with farmers and emphasis on fresh and local produce started the "farm-to-table" craze.  Like little kids showing off their newest and coolest toys, it became a trend for restaurants to show which local farmers they were using, and how they were showcasing their products.  "Here we have a strawberry soup utilizing strawberries from Berried Treasures Farm."  It was a vehicle that caused all these hard-working low-key farmers at the greenmarket to finally become celebrities in their own right, but chefs decided to push this further.  They wanted to up themselves.  Thus began urban farming and rooftop gardening.

But this is New York City.  We need to push the envelope even further.  We need to watch what chefs from all around the world are doing, and then we need to up that.  Well, New York finally has a theater in which to showcase the newest food craze.  It is called Atera, and the 31 year-old Chef Matthew Lightner has brought from Portland not just a philosophy to utilize local farms, but local parks.  The new trend is called "foraging", and foraged food is now beginning to pop up on menus all around the city.

Aug 4, 2012

Swine

"Not another one!"

When news broke out on Eater.com that Swine, a new pork-centric restaurant located in the West Village, was about to debut, it wasn't exactly welcomed with praise by commentors.  "Another pork restaurant?  How innovative.."  "Yawn."  "I guess they could have just called it 'No Jews.'"

Even though on the downwards part of the slope now, pork is still very much in demand in NYC.  So many restaurants have popped up that offer pork-centric menus, housemade charcuterie, nose-to-tail feasts, and great beers.  Back in 2007, Resto was at the forefront of this movement.  Fast forward five years, and it seems NYC is starting to get tired of the trend.

One thing I love to do is ignore what the mass population says and try out a restaurant for myself before forming an opinion.  In the case of Swine, I am more than happy that I did, because even though its not a new concept, even though its not innovative in any way whatsoever, it delivers a meal that is executed perfectly.  Sometimes, that's really all that matters. The flavors speak for themselves and nothing is effed with.  If you're a fan of offal, charcuterie, and cheeses, definitely make your way in.  Chef Phil Conlon delivers, and this restaurant is not a gimmick.

Located on Hudson Street, right next door to Red Farm and a block away from Takashi, Swine is easily found because of its large blue awning stretching out onto the sidewalk.  A very small hostess stands awaits you on the other side of the entrance, on a small floor in between the bar (top floor) and main dining room (located in the basement).  Although the decor is indescript and pretty much what you expect from a restaurant like this located in the West Village, the food and drinks are really why you're here.

Aug 1, 2012

Riverpark

I feel a visit to Craft restaurant may be in order soon.  The flagship of Tom Colicchio's empire has always intrigued me, surprised me, and satisfied me.  The simplicity of flavors, the large portions, the striking decor, and the warm service combined leaves every diner yearning for more.  The sub-par meal and horrible experience I had at Craftbar during brunch late last year, along with the overpriced sandwiches offered at 'Wichcraft, popped my Craft balloon.  I was deflated.  I thought here we go again, another chef who is over-expanding and his restaurants are starting to suffer.  When I went to Riverpark for restaurant week, I was hoping for a saving grace.  Sadly, I didn't exactly find it here.  Was it a good meal?  In some aspects yes.  Chef Sisha Ortuzar is offering the entire menu at a discounted price, with no change in portion sizes.  Was it memorable?  Not at all, as I have to look at the pictures I took just to remember what I ate.

When some people mention restaurants can be located "off the beaten path", no restaurant is more deserving of this title than Riverpark.  Riverpark is located on the first floor of The Alexandria Center, a medical building living on the far side of a gated, security guard watched, community in-between Bellevue Medical Center and NYU Medical.  Walking up 29th Street and eventually to 1st Avenue you can't help but seem reluctant to walk through the large iron gates to find your destination.  Confused and bewildered, the security guard looks at you and says "Don't worry, you're in the right place.  Just keep walking".  I guess he has become accustomed to not even asking where people are going.

So up the brick-lined, small-inclined, street you go.  After a few feet your eyes catch the surrounding areas and eventually to the silver sign outside of the Alexandria Center.  You've found it.  A part of you wants to control your enthusiasm.  Another part of you wants to jump up and down and scream to everyone walking behind you "There it is!  Follow me!".

Jun 1, 2012

Animal

The front of restaurant Animal (via Eater.com)
For weeks leading up to my first trip to Los Angeles I couldn't help but constantly think about Restaurant Animal.  It was first opened in 2008 by Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo.  You may recognize these punk rockers from Food Network's "Two Dudes Catering".  Soon after opening Animal and losing the catering business, they grew to national culinary fame with their small meat and offal-centric, 45-seat nondescript restaurant, even being awarded some of Food & Wine's Best New Chefs title of 2009.

I first met Jon and Vinny at Meattopia 2011.  By now I knew of their reputation, after watching them on Food Network and skimming through their cookbook from time to time.  Although they don't match any type of contemporary look for chefs, one thing is for sure, these guys know how to cook, and they can cook pretty damn well.  

Lamb Head Skull, the only decor on the walls
Animal was inspired by trips to Martin Picard's Au Pied de Cochon in Montreal, and Fergus Henderson's St. John in London.  Their chicken hearts with burnt eggplant puree that I tasted at Meattopia was just a teaser for things to come.    For now I am finally here in Los Angeles.  Looking at the no-name restaurant with black beams, full wall-size windows, and the numbers 435 across the top from across the street, I became a giddy schoolboy.  Come on Chef Floyd Cardoz, it's time to eat.  

The decor of Animal is very minimal, with nothing more on the walls than a lamb head skull.  A small bar in the back of the room provides the only color contrast to a small restaurant with wooden tables and beige walls.  Forget about it, though, you're not here for tablecloth wine service.  Take one look at Animal's menu and be prepared for the rich, fatty, spicy, fresh, well-balanced meal to come.

Apr 12, 2012

Osteria Morini

Michael White is regarded as one of the best Italian chefs in New York City today.  His flagship restaurant Marea, is arguably the best Italian restaurant in NYC, gaining national attention and two Michelin stars.  On the other side of the Michelin spectrum is his casual downtown hotspot, Osteria Morini, offering affordable, authentic Italian fare at the crossroads of Little Italy and Soho.

Osteria Morini is named after Michael White's mentor in Italy, Gianluigi Morini, chef and owner of Restaurant San Domenico in Italy, where Michael White spent much of his early career in.  Osteria means "host" in Italian.  Here, at Osteria Morini, Micheal White hosts guests with food and techniques he learned while traveling through Italy.  The result is a great Italian meal that will not break your wallet, only surpass your taste buds.

Osteria Morini is designed after a 1700's Italian farmhouse, although you probably would not have known it unless someone told you.  The ceilings are high-beamed and wooden, but the walls are very minimalistic and bare.  The restaurant is tiny, and the tables are pushed so close together you are almost within elbow's reach of the table sitting next to you.  They offer the full menu at the bar, which surprisingly is a bit more spacious, so if given the option, decide against a table.

My friend and I arrived on time for our reservation, but were seating at the bar while our table was still being set.  After ordering a round of drinks we were asked if we would like to move to the table or stay at the bar.  Being our first time here we opted for the table.  We now know better for the future as I felt I was pushed too far into the table to allow ample room for servers to get behind me comfortably.  My chair was kicked a few times as well, a very big pet peeve of mine.

The service is very cold, as I couldn't tell if our server was just having a bad day or really didn't care if we were there or not.  Seeing how packed this restaurant is, and how many tables they turn, makes me believe the latter.  I didn't even get her name through the course of the night, even though we only saw her twice.

Nov 27, 2011

Jardiniere

View of Jardiniere from across the street
Whenever I travel I make it a point to eat out a lot.  There is so much you can learn from a city by eating your way around it.  The dining trends, where people like to hang out, and visit all the different neighborhoods by visiting different restaurants.  With a visit to each city I always splurge on one big-named restaurant.  A restaurant that I don't mind paying upwards of over $150 for myself, as I know it will be worth it and remain a memory worth having.

In the case of San Francisco this restaurant was Jardiniere.  Owned and operated by Chef Traci Des Jardins, Jardiniere has remained one of the top restaurants in the Bay Area for the last 15 years.  Recently just finishing a solid run on Top Chef Masters, Traci has won numerous awards through her career including "Rising Star Chef", "Best New Chef", "Best Chef Pacific Region", and "Best New Restaurant" after Jardiniere opened.  With so many accolades under her apron it was no surprise I made it a point to dine here.

The spectacular ceiling of twinkling lights
Located just across San Francisco's City Hall, the corner building with exposed brick walls is where Chef Des Jardins makes her home.  Walking through the glass door entrance you are transported to a room designed after an inverted cocktail glass filled with champagne.  On the ceiling is a spectacular glass dome with twinkling lights evoking the feeling of effervescent bubbles.  The decor continues downward to a champagne-colored staircase connecting the ground floor.   The ground level has marble floors sweeping throughout, laying home to a large, circular mahogany bar and the entrance to the main kitchen.  Exposed brick walls on the inside of the restaurant give a more rustic feel and counteract the elegance of the tablecloth covered dining room.

Nov 20, 2011

Incanto

Anyone who loves offal as much as I do knows the name Chris Cosentino.  He is considered to be at the forefront of nose-to-tail dining in North America.  His restaurant, Incanto, has been named by some as the most adventurous restaurant in the United States.  He runs the website, Offal Good, educating people on how to buy, handle, and cook offal.  He opened a small shop called Boccalone in the Ferry Building, selling San Francisco's famous "meat cone".  For someone with so much passion for what they do, it is no surprise that I made Incanto my first dinner stop during my trip to San Francisco.  I was psyched.  

The restaurant is gorgeous, and very well put together.  Large wall-size windows overlook the sidewalks of Noe Valley, pictures of pigs grazing, figurines of pig heads on the walls, colors of light brown and white stretching from the front of the restaurant to the back, an open kitchen, and humorously, a bookshelf in the bathrooms containing cookbooks that would make any avid collector smile.

A friend and I decided to go big.  Heck, I flew 3000 miles to come here.  When talking with our server we asked if we had ordered enough, and when she said yes, we ordered some more.  The restaurant started us off with a bread platter containing house-made tapenade, breads, and breadsticks.
Incanto's Bread and Breadsticks with House-Made Black Olive Tapenade
Like many restaurants, I tend to skip on bread platters, as they serve no more purpose than to just get your palate going, while filling you up in a few bites.  Incanto was no different, serving bread which was passable, but not exceptional.  The olive tapenade didn't do wonders for me.  This was pushed off to the side.  Now bring on the offal.

Sep 4, 2011

Tacos el Idolo Food Truck

After my visit to Tacos el Bronco a few weeks ago in Brooklyn, my mouth has been watering for more tasty, authentic tacos in NY.  Located just two blocks from the West Village location of Gray's Papaya, I couldn't help but try out the tacos from the Food Truck of Tacos el Idolo.

Even though I've never been to the West Coast (I'll make it there in November, pick your jaw back up!), and hardly remember my last visit to Texas, people from those areas constantly say that authentic Mexican food in NYC does not measure up.  Honestly, that makes me upset.  NYC is known as a food mecca, and the fact that I can't find something really authentic here pisses me off.  With that being said, I can't wait to try out the Mexican food in California when I make it out there later this year.

That being said, I guess I'll settle for what I think are some great places here.  Tacos El Idolo is based out of Corona, Queens, and has about three to four food trucks parked around NY.  What really drew me to try them out was their meat selection.  Along with the usual carnitas, beef, chicken, spicy pork, and salty beef, they also offer tongue, tripe, ear, and even goat meat.  You know I'm always on the lookout for offal cuts.  Tacos El Idolo did not disappoint.


Aug 23, 2011

Tacos el Bronco

I would be surprised if anyone tells me that haven't had some sort of Mexican food in their lives.  Mexican food is just a part of American culture nowadays as the hamburger.  Tacos, burritos, enchiladas, taquitos, salsa, mole, nachos, tamales, quesadillas, and guacamole.  Is your mouth watering yet?  Mine is too.

But like many cuisines across the United States corporate monkeys looking to make a quick buck destroyed the image of Mexican cuisine.  Chain and fast food restaurants like Taco Bell, On the Border, Chilis, and even Chipotle are using sub-par ingredients, dismal food pairings, and charging customers an arm and leg for it.  What's even more surprising?  People are willing to pay for it.

Mexican food is about love.  Mexican food is about simplicity.  It's not about deep-frying a burrito and covering it in three types of cheese, with a side of "Spanish" rice and beans.  It's about taking quality meats, slow-braising them until tender, and serving them inside soft, warm tortillas with onions, cilantro, and lime.  It's about taking homemade masa (corn-based dough), stuffing it with braised meats, and steaming it inside a banana leaf until tender.   In Mexico they fill their burritos only with meat and refried beans.  Whoever came up with the idea of stuffing rice, meat, salsa, sour cream, lettuce, avocado, beans, and cheese into a burrito is just looking to scam you by making you pay $12 for it.  Mexican food doesn't need all that.  As long as you have a passionate cook that knows how to handle the ingredients, you realize you don't need all the extras.  You taste the love that they put in with their own hands.

Aug 22, 2011

ilili

I received my first taste of Lebanese cuisine many years ago at a small hole-in-the-wall restaurant in Brooklyn.  I didn't know what to expect of the cuisine before heading in.  With a friend's help, she navigated me through the menu and after one bite of the fresh baked bread covered in za'atar (a fresh herb blend mixed with sesame seeds, sumac, and lemon), I fell in love.  I will never forget that first taste, and that first meal.

For years that followed I became intrigued by Lebanese, as well as other Mediterranean cuisines. Small plates of mezze (think tapas) of traditional hummus, baba ganoush (baked eggplant mixed with various seasonings), tabbouleh (bulgar and herb salad), to large skewers of meat (mainly lamb and chicken), fresh pita breads, and heavy seasonings of garlic, lemon, fresh herbs, cumin, aleppo pepper (a mild type of chili flake), and sumac (a dried reddish berry powder with a lemony flavor, but not as tart).  There are few that could dislike this cuisine, and if you have yet to try it, I am hoping my descriptions have made you willing to do so.  

At nighttime it can easily be seen as a restaurant
However, it has always served as a medium-profile cuisine.  Small restaurant owners setting up shop serving traditional small plates of hummus, pita sandwiches, and grilled meats over rice.  With the introduction of ilili into the NYC restaurant scene back in 2008, Lebanese cuisine has finally come into the major spotlight.  

Located just a short distance from Madison Square Park, it is very easy to pass by ilili in the daytime.  Like the service staff inside, the restaurant is painted black.  Unless you notice the brown lettering sketched into the black awning over the front doors, the space looks vacant.  Step inside, though, and its a whole other story.  

Aug 1, 2011

Meatopia 2011

"The Woodstock of Edible Animals"

Floyd Cardoz and Joshua Ozersky
The name says it all.  It's a festival of meat.  Every animal.  Every cut.  Every method of cookery.  If you're a meat lover, Meatopia is your heaven.  And that is exactly what it is to the founder of the event, Joshua Ozersky. 

Joshua is very well known in the food world as a food writer and meat lover.  He was one of the founding editors of Grub Street, has written two books including one on hamburgers and a carnivores guide to NY.  It is no surprise that he is the man that brought over forty chefs from all over the country to celebrate his favorite thing.  
Although many people think this year marked the second year of Meatopia, they are actually mistaken.  This event has now passed its seventh year, with the first five years being a small invitation-only event.  Every year was themed, and Joshua invited 5-7 chefs to cook pork, lamb, beef, etc. for about 200-300 guests.

Floyd Cardoz and I were invited to cook at Meatopia two years ago during the lamb event.  "Lamb Bam Thank You Ma'am" was the slogan.  We witnessed six chefs grilling whole baby lambs over spits.  Spraying and brushing the animals with marinades, and sitting back and waiting patiently for hours until the perfect doneness.  At the end of a long, hot day, the animals were brought over to picnic tables, and broken down to serve the diners. It was magical.

Jul 26, 2011

Ellabess

Lets admit it, hotel restaurants are not that exciting.  Beautiful dining rooms are usually met with apathetic staff and mediocre to sub-par food.  Fine silverware is matched with bright white, stylish dinnerware, that serves as a vessel for food that does not have much thought or care put into it.

Ellabess dining room
Walking into Ellabess you can't help but feel this is going to be one more of those experiences.  Ellabess is housed in the corner of the Nolitan Hotel.  Like many hotel restaurants, the dining room is sleek and chic.  The 70-seat dining room sits just below street level, with two walls of high glass windows allowing an incredible amount of natural light in, and in return allows diners to check out the bustling Nolitan neighborhood outside.  The dining room is set in oak, with Austrian oak floors, and custom-made oak tables and chairs.  A high marble-countered bar sits along the back of the room.

The incredible house-made rolls
At first bite, however, your stereotypes of what hotel restaurants should be are thrown right out the window.  Ellabess is brought to you by Epicurean Management, the same company that created West Village favorites Dell-anima, Anfora, and L'artusi.  With their newest venture, Ellabess, you realize very quickly they're doing some serious food here.

The kitchen is run by Executive Chef Troy Unruh, who was most recently the Chef de Cuisine at Dell-anima, as well as a veteran of Del Posto.  The Executive Sous-Chef is Ty Kotz, the former Chef de Cuisine at Tabla right before the closing of the restaurant back in December.  Also from Tabla is the Executive Pastry Chef Carmine Arroyo, who was the former pastry Sous Chef up until the closing.  The incredible talent in the kitchen translates heavily into the food, making for an overall wonderful and unforgettable experience.

The menu is small, but well put together, offering a little bit of everything from market salads, crab salads, chilled pea soup, to sweetbreads, quail, pork tenderloin, and even fried chicken.  While looking over the menu the first bite of the house-made rolls will make you swoon and transport you to a happier place.  They are warm, buttery, soft, and flavorful.  Reminiscent of your favorite biscuit without the hard texture.

Jul 18, 2011

Resto

Resto (French for "casual restaurant") opened its doors in the Spring of 2007.  Being a line cook at Tabla at the time, my coworkers and I used to visit this restaurant every other week for their amazing Belgium-style pub fare. The menu is nose-to-tail, the beer selection is amazing, and it's just a great place to hangout and enjoy yourself.

It has been just over three years since I have been to Resto, but after seeing it was participating in Summer Restaurant Week this year, I decided to make a reservation and come back.  Memories of the opening menu four years ago flooded my head.  Deviled eggs on pork toast were my favorite.  Pig's head sandwich served on toasted white bread and curried mayonnaise was a close second.  The house-made sausages, the beef cheeks, and the memories of the rest of the nose-to-tail menu excited me and I couldn't wait for lunch on Friday afternoon.

The restaurant has undergone some changes in the past few years.  The executive chef has changed to Bobby Hellen, and the menu is now a lot more developed.   However, everything else about the place is the same.  The decor is still boring.  Eighty seats spread around 26 tables in a large room, with six outside on the patio.  And if you visit the bathroom, the large, heavy sliding door will annoy the **** out of you.  Yup, that's really all there is to say about that.

Jun 13, 2011

Takashi

"Yakiniku" - a Japanese term referring to grilled meat dishes. 

Takashi is a small, intimate, 34-seat restaurant located in the West Village.  It is named after the Chef and owner, Takashi Inoue, who opened this restaurant with Saheem Ali (the general manager) just over a year ago. 

Being a third-generation Korean immigrant being born in Japan, Takashi masterfully combines the boldness of Korean flavors with the finesse of Japanese cuisine.  His passion comes through with every small bite offered on the menu.  The thought here is to serve beef, beef, and nothing but beef.  He stays sustainable, and uses every cut of the cow possible, from shortrib and ribeye, to more extreme cuts such as tongue, heart, stomach, and even achilles tendon.  Everything is extremely fresh, tastes amazing (he and Saheem spent months sourcing out the best local beef from small, local farms and purveyors), oh, and you get to grill it yourself. 

The address is 456 Hudson Street.  Keep that number in mind as it is what you will be looking for when you dine at Takashi for the first time.  The restaurant does not display its name on its awning, yet the NY Times review hangs proudly off the front window.  Walk through the front door slowly, as you might walk straight into a diner seated at the Chef's counter if you're not paying attention.  Warm wood and slightly dark tones run through the restaurant, and the room of just seven tables and three large benches at the Chef's counter is really no larger than most NYC apartments.  Every table comes equipped with a high-tech electric grill, and the two chefs working behind the counter stay quiet, and work with such precision, speed, and finesse it's hard not to be amazed.  A mural on the wall behind the Chef's counter comically portrays every cut of beef and their definitions, as well as nutritional values.

Jun 3, 2011

Maialino

I’ve been to Maialino, located in the Gramercy Park Hotel, about three times now.  However, I never made it into their dining room, as I love to sit at the long open bar, which is why it’s only fair I review just the bar area in this post. 
The bar area at Maialino has a very modern European café look to it, and their dining room resembles an old school Roman trattoria.  Blue and white picnic-style tablecloths cover the wooden tables, fresh baked breads line the walls, a small open kitchen displaying the house-made charcuterie, wine bottles lining the room dividers, and huge windows facing the street allowing so much natural light in.  Maialino is definitely a great place to grab a drink and a quick bite to eat.  They even serve breakfast, and I have been trying my best for months to wake up early enough try their Porchetta sandwich.  Roast pork and fried eggs served in a roll.  Now that sounds like a great way to wake up. 
To say the staff is friendly is an understatement.  Everyone who works here is incredibly nice.  For those who know me, yes this opinion is a little biased as I know a quarter of the staff, but I can see how they serve other patrons as well.  Every diner here seems very comfortable, as if they were sitting in someone’s home.  Danny Meyer’s famous hospitality definitely comes through with this restaurant. 

May 11, 2011

ABC Kitchen

First and foremost, I want to congratulate ABC Kitchen for winning the James Beard Award for Best New Restaurant on Monday night.  For anyone that has eaten here (and there are many) you already know this award is more than well-deserved. 
ABC is the brainchild of Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten and Phil Suarez, the same team which brought you the four-star Jean-Georges, Spice Market, Jojo, Mercer Kitchen, and about twenty other restaurants across the world.  To lead the kitchen here, they tapped on the talent of Executive Chef Dan Kluger, formerly of Tabla and The Core Club, and who also was just recently honored as Chef of the Year by Time Out New York.  With years of experience under his belt, Dan uses a very simplistic approach to his food, by masterfully combining flavor profiles of the freshest ingredients possible. 
Tonight was my second time dining at ABC Kitchen, and like so many other diners, can’t stop raving about the experiences.  The restaurant is beautiful.  It has one of the sleekest looking bars in Manhattan, and a dining room which is blanketed in white.  Everything looks so modern, so elegant, so clean.  From the black & white artwork on the walls, recycled white tables and chairs, wooden beams which run through the dining room, and the handmade porcelain dinnerware.  The FOH staff, all dressed in plaid shirts and jeans, are on point, welcoming everyone with warm smiles and attentive service.  Even with a packed dining room your water glass will never remain empty for more than 30 seconds. 
The restaurant commits itself to buying local, seasonal, organic, sustainable products, and every ounce of this passion comes through in the menu.  I love to admit this to anyone, ABC Kitchen has made me fall in love with vegetables again.  Now if I, a self-professed lover of pork and offal can say that, then it’s not hard to see why people love this restaurant so much.  Not to say that the meat and fish dishes are not up to par, but I will happily go vegetarian for this restaurant any day of the week. 

May 6, 2011

Lyon: Bouchon Moderne

It’s not very often that I disagree with a NY Times review, but so is the case when it comes to dining at Lyon
Lyon is located in the heart of the West Village, seen easily anywhere on the street by the bright yellow and white light-up sign hanging over the sidewalk.  Walking into Lyon you’re immediately transported into a classic French bistro.  The room is bright, especially during the day as the large windows allow natural sunlight to shine on the dark woodwork running through the room, offset slightly by a hue of red.   The color scheme then carries over to the red-and-white picnic blanket style napkins, also displayed proudly by the service staff uniforms. 
My only complaint about the décor is that the tables for two are packed so tightly together.   So tight that the entire table has to be removed for the patron that is seated against the wall to get in or out.  Make sure they make a bathroom trip before the meal starts, because it’s damn near impossible for them to be removed once the table is full of food and drink.  In fact, everyone should make a trip to the restrooms, which are located in the basement.  Every wall displays colorful classic French cartoons.  Your friend taking too long?  No problem, amuse yourself with the “Adventures of Asterix”.  Your friend is most likely doing the same inside the stall. 
The Executive Chef here is Chris Leahy, who opened Lyon with business partners Francoise Latapie and Penny Bradley.  Of Irish background, Chris has a very impressive cooking background training under some of the best chefs across the country, and his heart lies in classical French cooking. 

May 3, 2011

The Spotted Pig

Can you believe I have never been to this restaurant?  Can you believe that I, a self-professed pork lover, took close to 30 years before dining at a restaurant called The Spotted Pig in my hometown?  Can you believe I have gone as far as Canada to enjoy pork and offal dishes and I never did it in one of the most famous NYC restaurants on the scene right now?  If you couldn’t tell, I hate myself.  In fact, I hate myself a lot for not coming to The Spotted Pig sooner.  It wasn’t always my fault, though.  As anyone who has ever been to this restaurant can tell you, it’s always packed.  There have been two times before where I have tried to get a table late in the night, but then turned away after hearing I would have to wait upwards to an hour.  Luckily, on this beautiful, sunny Saturday evening, I was able to score a table right when they opened at 5:30…err…5:45pm. 
I had to wait 15 minutes before they could seat me because “the kitchen wasn’t ready”.  Strangely enough, there were tons of patrons already seated around the establishment.  Although I waited for a few minutes the hostess then got my attention and brought me over to my table on the second floor.  She was very nice, never without a smile, and made small talk with me up while heading up the stairs.  This move immediately made me feel more welcome, because there’s nothing like being greeted with a warm smile when you start your experience. 
I sat down next to an older couple, and the female was pretty much bent over in pain.  It’s never a good sign when you sit down and the patron right next to you is holding her stomach.  “Ohhh my gaaawwd, I am sooo full!”  Now I love going to restaurants and getting your money’s worth, you want to leave feeling full.  But when you stuff yourself to the point of being incapacitated, especially when it’s only close to 6pm on a Saturday night, well your night is pretty much over.  That being said, be careful about how much you order here, because the portion sizes are fairly large, and very filling. 

May 2, 2011

The Breslin Bar & Dining Room

The Breslin is a British-style gastropub at its finest.  I love restaurants like this.  A place you can go grab great food, in a casual setting, yet still maintains a type of elegant touch. 
The Breslin is located inside the Ace Hotel, with the main entrance adjacent to it.  I emphasize that because my first time going to the restaurant I missed the entrance completely.  I walked into the lobby of the Ace Hotel and thought “this is the strangest looking gastropub I have ever seen”. 
Walking into the Breslin you immediately walk into their bar area.  Lots of dark wood colors, lively atmosphere, and large windows which allow for a lot of natural light to come through.  They offer a wide selection of beers, and it’s a great place for friends to come in and hang out.
This then carries over to the restaurant.  Comfortable booths, wood chairs, tan paper-cloths covering black wood-finished tables, and a lot of random food and animal memorabilia which covers every piece of empty space in the restaurant.  Still-life paintings of fruit, red paper lobsters, a small bull’s head with a giant ring coming out of its nose, and so forth.  Even though the décor is all over the place, it just screams at you “I want you to be comfortable”, and that I was.