Showing posts with label duck. Show all posts
Showing posts with label duck. Show all posts

Aug 30, 2012

Atera

**Note.  If you are planning on dining at Atera, I highly recommend eating the food before reading this post, as it will ruin a lot of surprises through the course of the meal**

It's amazing how many culinary trends New York City has undertaken in the past decade.  The fall of the twin towers caused the death of fine dining, where as a nation we turned to more economically feasible comfort food options.  We looked for menus that had a recognizable burger and french fries, instead of duck and foie gras.  Fast forward a few years and we became ready to play with our food, and all the emphasis was on molecular gastronomy and the multiple ways we could manipulate nature's ingredients.  Heston Blumenthal's Fat Duck in Bray, England, and Ferran Adria's El Bulli in Catalonia, Spain were the world's best known restaurants to showcase it.  When trendsetters like Alinea in Chicago, and WD-50 in New York City ran out of ideas, so did the city's interest with science.  We've seen it already, what can we do next?

Then out of nowhere the "fad" was a practice multiple chefs had been utilizing for years.  Relationships they had built with farmers and emphasis on fresh and local produce started the "farm-to-table" craze.  Like little kids showing off their newest and coolest toys, it became a trend for restaurants to show which local farmers they were using, and how they were showcasing their products.  "Here we have a strawberry soup utilizing strawberries from Berried Treasures Farm."  It was a vehicle that caused all these hard-working low-key farmers at the greenmarket to finally become celebrities in their own right, but chefs decided to push this further.  They wanted to up themselves.  Thus began urban farming and rooftop gardening.

But this is New York City.  We need to push the envelope even further.  We need to watch what chefs from all around the world are doing, and then we need to up that.  Well, New York finally has a theater in which to showcase the newest food craze.  It is called Atera, and the 31 year-old Chef Matthew Lightner has brought from Portland not just a philosophy to utilize local farms, but local parks.  The new trend is called "foraging", and foraged food is now beginning to pop up on menus all around the city.

Aug 29, 2012

The Nomad

 "The competition would be too great."

When I first heard news last year that Danny Meyer was selling his four-star restaurant, 11 Madison Park, I was a bit shocked.  Restaurateurs and chefs alike strive for that rating given to them by the NY Times.  It takes some restaurants decades to finally mature to that level, honing their skills year after year, until perfection is finally reached.  Once its reached, they strive for an even higher level.

Daniel Humm and Will Guidara, the Chef and General Manager of 11 Madison Park, with a group of investors started the company MadeNice.  Once hearing these two professionals, two people who are truly at the top of their game in their respected fields, were planning on opening a restaurant just a few blocks away from 11 Madison, Danny had no choice but to sell.  The diamond of Danny Meyer's empire was now sold to Daniel and Will, and just a year later, they opened The Nomad Restaurant located inside The Nomad hotel.  Finally having a chance to eat here tonight, I realized Danny Meyer made a very smart decision.

The Nomad has taken casual hotel dining, elevated it with Mr. Meyer's signature hospitality warmth, and mixed it with cuisine cooked with incredibly high standards by a military-style French brigade in the basement kitchen.  Abram Bissell, the former Executive Sous Chef at 11 Madison, has been given the prestigious task of running The Nomad, which includes the now three-star restaurant, rooftop dining, and 24-hour room service.

The Nomad Hotel
The Nomad, which means "North of Madison Square Park", is located on the corner of 28th and Broadway, in a building very similarly designed to the iconic Flatiron Building located just five blocks downtown.  "The Atrium", or main dining room, is situated just off the hotel lobby, and is equipped with a skylight the same size as the dining room.  The skylight allows natural light to shine down on the dark wood furnishings, upholstered chairs, stone floor, and other forms of classic old-world architecture.

Located just off the Atrium is the bar, equipped with a dark mahogany countertop and designed to give the feeling of an old-world library.  Off in the other direction, is an actual two-story library, an area which serves small pastries and coffee.  The last section is The Parlour Room, and is a bit more intimate with red accents on the wall and a marble hearth imported straight from France.  Here, you can meet one of the sous chefs as he overlooks the cooking of small snacks and the now very well-known foie gras and truffle-stuffed chicken-for-2.

Aug 1, 2012

Riverpark

I feel a visit to Craft restaurant may be in order soon.  The flagship of Tom Colicchio's empire has always intrigued me, surprised me, and satisfied me.  The simplicity of flavors, the large portions, the striking decor, and the warm service combined leaves every diner yearning for more.  The sub-par meal and horrible experience I had at Craftbar during brunch late last year, along with the overpriced sandwiches offered at 'Wichcraft, popped my Craft balloon.  I was deflated.  I thought here we go again, another chef who is over-expanding and his restaurants are starting to suffer.  When I went to Riverpark for restaurant week, I was hoping for a saving grace.  Sadly, I didn't exactly find it here.  Was it a good meal?  In some aspects yes.  Chef Sisha Ortuzar is offering the entire menu at a discounted price, with no change in portion sizes.  Was it memorable?  Not at all, as I have to look at the pictures I took just to remember what I ate.

When some people mention restaurants can be located "off the beaten path", no restaurant is more deserving of this title than Riverpark.  Riverpark is located on the first floor of The Alexandria Center, a medical building living on the far side of a gated, security guard watched, community in-between Bellevue Medical Center and NYU Medical.  Walking up 29th Street and eventually to 1st Avenue you can't help but seem reluctant to walk through the large iron gates to find your destination.  Confused and bewildered, the security guard looks at you and says "Don't worry, you're in the right place.  Just keep walking".  I guess he has become accustomed to not even asking where people are going.

So up the brick-lined, small-inclined, street you go.  After a few feet your eyes catch the surrounding areas and eventually to the silver sign outside of the Alexandria Center.  You've found it.  A part of you wants to control your enthusiasm.  Another part of you wants to jump up and down and scream to everyone walking behind you "There it is!  Follow me!".

Jul 25, 2012

Aldea

I kicked off summer restaurant week this year with my first visit to Aldea, the small, elegant, Portugese-inspired restaurant of Chef George Mendes.  George, who was recently a contestant on Top Chef Masters Season 3, opened Aldea in 2009.  Only two years later he was awarded the coveted "Best New Chef" title from Food & Wine magazine.

Chef Mendes knew from a very early age that he wanted to become a chef.  He now sources fresh ingredients that are in season and builds a daily-changing menu at Aldea to showcase them.  Over the past three years Aldea has been named one of the most cutting edge restaurants in New York City today.  It this reputation which caused me to come in this afternoon.

While walking down 17th street the blue and white "Aldea" sign gives you a soothing welcome.  Once upon entering through the clear door the hostess greeted me and asked me where I'd prefer to sit.  To my surprise Aldea has an open kitchen, and now knowing that information, had no hesitation in saying I would love to sit at the dining counter overlooking it.  As she lead me to my seat I walked past Chef Mendes himself leaning over the bar making some phone calls.  It's always a good sign when you have the presence of the chef in the restaurant.

At first glance the restaurant evokes a feeling of warmth.  The blue and white color scheme stretches into the restaurant from front to back, and is said to be designed after the Iberian coastline.  Images of air, water, land, clouds, and wind bring you on the same journey Chef Mendes embarked on as a young man through that very coastline.  On this visit I also noticed that not many people were embarking on that journey.

Apr 12, 2012

Osteria Morini

Michael White is regarded as one of the best Italian chefs in New York City today.  His flagship restaurant Marea, is arguably the best Italian restaurant in NYC, gaining national attention and two Michelin stars.  On the other side of the Michelin spectrum is his casual downtown hotspot, Osteria Morini, offering affordable, authentic Italian fare at the crossroads of Little Italy and Soho.

Osteria Morini is named after Michael White's mentor in Italy, Gianluigi Morini, chef and owner of Restaurant San Domenico in Italy, where Michael White spent much of his early career in.  Osteria means "host" in Italian.  Here, at Osteria Morini, Micheal White hosts guests with food and techniques he learned while traveling through Italy.  The result is a great Italian meal that will not break your wallet, only surpass your taste buds.

Osteria Morini is designed after a 1700's Italian farmhouse, although you probably would not have known it unless someone told you.  The ceilings are high-beamed and wooden, but the walls are very minimalistic and bare.  The restaurant is tiny, and the tables are pushed so close together you are almost within elbow's reach of the table sitting next to you.  They offer the full menu at the bar, which surprisingly is a bit more spacious, so if given the option, decide against a table.

My friend and I arrived on time for our reservation, but were seating at the bar while our table was still being set.  After ordering a round of drinks we were asked if we would like to move to the table or stay at the bar.  Being our first time here we opted for the table.  We now know better for the future as I felt I was pushed too far into the table to allow ample room for servers to get behind me comfortably.  My chair was kicked a few times as well, a very big pet peeve of mine.

The service is very cold, as I couldn't tell if our server was just having a bad day or really didn't care if we were there or not.  Seeing how packed this restaurant is, and how many tables they turn, makes me believe the latter.  I didn't even get her name through the course of the night, even though we only saw her twice.

Nov 18, 2011

4505 Meats

If you're going to be in San Francisco, I highly recommend making a visit to The Ferry Building.  Ride a trolley car down the Embaracadero, take in the sights of the beautiful San Francisco Bay, get off at The Ferry Building, take a walk inside, and savor the smells of all the beautiful artisinal vendors that await you.

The Ferry Building has a little of everything to satisfy the foodie inside of you.  Save your appetite, though, and after venturing through, make sure to take a walk outside on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays, to visit the Farmer's Market outside.  This is where you surely will not be disappointed.

4505 Meats is a small meat vendor serving freshly grilled meats to patrons visiting the Farmer's Market.  The smell of the grilled meats intoxicates you, attracting you closer to their chalkboard menu portraying some of the best items you possibly could imagine at a Farmer's Market.

Turducken sandwich?  Duck Sausage?  Fried Turkey Leg?  Yes, please.

May 6, 2011

Lyon: Bouchon Moderne

It’s not very often that I disagree with a NY Times review, but so is the case when it comes to dining at Lyon. 
Lyon is located in the heart of the West Village, seen easily anywhere on the street by the bright yellow and white light-up sign hanging over the sidewalk.  Walking into Lyon you’re immediately transported into a classic French bistro.  The room is bright, especially during the day as the large windows allow natural sunlight to shine on the dark woodwork running through the room, offset slightly by a hue of red.   The color scheme then carries over to the red-and-white picnic blanket style napkins, also displayed proudly by the service staff uniforms. 
My only complaint about the décor is that the tables for two are packed so tightly together.   So tight that the entire table has to be removed for the patron that is seated against the wall to get in or out.  Make sure they make a bathroom trip before the meal starts, because it’s damn near impossible for them to be removed once the table is full of food and drink.  In fact, everyone should make a trip to the restrooms, which are located in the basement.  Every wall displays colorful classic French cartoons.  Your friend taking too long?  No problem, amuse yourself with the “Adventures of Asterix”.  Your friend is most likely doing the same inside the stall. 
The Executive Chef here is Chris Leahy, who opened Lyon with business partners Francoise Latapie and Penny Bradley.  Of Irish background, Chris has a very impressive cooking background training under some of the best chefs across the country, and his heart lies in classical French cooking. 

Apr 24, 2011

Au Pied de Cochon

It just made sense to me to make my first real post about my favorite restaurant.  It’s called Au Pied de Cochon (or PDC for short), and it is located in Montreal, Quebec.  If you have not heard of it, the Chef’s name is Martin Picard, and he specializes in everything related to foie gras, pork, duck, and fat.  How could this not be MY favorite restaurant in the world?  This is truly a gastronomic destination. 
The restaurant is very easy to miss the first time you walk by it.  The only visible signs are located on a high window.  I don’t think it is much concern to Chef Picard, though, because the restaurant is packed every night.  I have eaten there a total of five times, and was able to get a reservation only once.  I have realized as a single diner, your best bet is to walk in once they open, and grab a seat in front of the open kitchen. 
The entrance way is very tiny.  I was greeted by two hostesses and sat in the "special seat" at the bar.  When Au Pied De Cochon opened in 2003 Martin Picard asked for donations because he couldn't afford to buy all the seats he needed at the bar.  The result was three hunters donated three chairs that looked VERY out of place, but are very cool in their own sense.  I felt lucky to sit in the last one standing, which was wrapped in gold antlers. 

When you walk in you immediately pass by their seafood tank, and then a huge array of market produce before making your way to your seat.  So many fresh tomatoes, turnips, apples, and so forth just on display.  The tank hides the pizza oven area, where two cooks prepare the large items like the guinea hen for 2, pork loin for 2, and the lamb shank.  PDC bakes their bread fresh daily, and also had eight of their fresh sourdoughs attached to what looks like a giant spear on a counter table.  Unlike most restaurants, the FOH team is very involved with the daily routines of the kitchen.  I witnessed my kitchen runner slicing fresh sourdough to order, as well as others peeling and shelling fresh cranberry beans.