Jun 28, 2011

L'Express

Imagine this.  You go out for a night on the town.  You're partying, you're drinking, you're having a good time.  Then between 2am and 4am, it's all over.  You're buzzed, you're drunk, you're hungry.  Visit to the open halal cart with the usual chicken over rice and gyros?  Visit the diner with the usual burgers, eggs, and sandwiches?  What could be better at that exact moment than knowing there's a 24 hour Lyonnaise bistro open right around the corner? 

This is what draws me into L'Express.  Not only is the restaurant 24 hours, but the food here is very, very good. 

The decor is minimalistic.  During the overnight hours the restaurant is actually very dimly lit.  White tabletops covering dark wood tables, with matching dark wooden chairs.  Wall-sized windows looking straight out to Park Avenue, and a bar which never stops serving through the night (ok, maybe from 4am-12pm).  It's not the decor which should invite you in here, though, it's the food. 

Even at 2am their menu is full of options, including breakfast if that's what you're in the mood for.  I've been here a few times, and there hasn't been anything I haven't enjoyed.  Granted, I have yet to visit this 24-hour bistro while completely sober, so my opinion here really doesn't matter.  (Side note, I apologize for this fact due to the pics in this post being very blurry and dark.)  On this visit I started with the House-made pate, and finished with the Moroccan-spiced lamb burger. 


Chicken & Pork Pate
The pate is made from chicken and pork, and served as four thick wedges over a perfectly-dressed mesclun salad, with four cured black olives, a slice of tomato, and a touch of dijon mustard. 

It was perfect.  It satisfied every ounce of my soul at the moment.  The pate was full of flavor, and combined with the acidic olives, the sharp and spicy mustard, and even the dressed greens, every bite was so enjoyable.  I had no issue finishing this dish in less than five minutes.

The burger came next, and very quickly.  As my server cleared my first course the burger was dropped literally 30 seconds later.  I paused for a second to question the rushness, but then I figured who really cares?  I'm hungry and there's a lamb burger in front of me.  That's all I should care about at the moment. 

Moroccan-spiced Lamb Burger
The burger was incredible.  Four ounces of perfectly-cooked medium-rare lamb, served on a soft bun with goat cheese and crispy fries.  Lettuce, tomato, and a slice of onion are the side, as well as a Harissa paste (spicy paste made from reconstituted red chilies, garlic, cumin, coriander, and vinegar).  The server also brings you a bottle of ketchup if you decide to use it.

The meat was so tender, and paired with the Harissa paste, goat cheese, and tomato made for the perfect combination of spicy, sweet, acidic, salty, and creamy incredibelness.  I don't even care if that's not a real word. 

I then paid my amazing deal of $28, and stumbled my way out of the restaurant.

L'Express
249 Park Ave South
New York, NY 10003

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