Cotogna & Quince

The culinary power couple.

Before I had made my way to San Francisco there was but one recommendation I could not get out of my head.  Chef Floyd Cardoz told me I need to visit Cotogna.  From what I have realized from our own similar tastes in the past, when he recommends a restaurant, I must listen.

Cotogna is a small, rustic Italian restaurant owned and operated by Michael and Lindsay Tusk.  The two chefs first opened their fine-dining flagship Quince in 2003.  A hit right from the start, their passion lead them to move Quince into a more luxurious and grander space taking over Myth in San Francisco's Jackson Square in 2009.  The space included a small corner cafe, and after about a year and a half, and Lindsay Tusk doing much of the design work herself, transformed that cafe into Cotogna, which actually means "quince" in Italian.

Cotogna is centered around the pastas that Michael Tusk became famous for at Quince, having removed all of them from the now four-star establishment, making them more readily available in a more casual atmosphere.  There is not much to the decor of this 50-seat restaurant, with windows looking out to Jackson Square and wooden panels flowing throughout.  But what makes this space stand out is the small open kitchen showcasing a wood-fire pizza oven and a stand-alone grill with rotating spits.  Two cooks man these stations in the front while three more work behind the scenes.  The rest of the kitchen can be seen on a visit to the restrooms.

Getting a reservation here is hard.  Very hard actually.  I was trying for up to one month to see if I could make a reservation here before actually being in the Bay Area.  On a Tuesday night I decided to press my luck and visit the restaurant, and thankfully I got lucky.  I walked in and starting talking to the hostesses about my chances of dining that night.  They told me they accept walk-ins at the dining counters which were full at the moment.  They then took down my number and offered to call me if a space opened up.  Jumping at the chance I was put on the waitlist, and 20 minutes later received a call saying I could dine.  I thanked them profusely for the kindness.

A peek into the stunning Michelin-starred Quince kitchen

For those twenty minutes I was waiting I decided to go for a walk, but didn't get very far.  Connected by one long back hallway to Cotogna is Quince, which has a window on the sidewalk looking into their Michelin-starred kitchen.  With about five other patrons I peeked in through the black steel beams into a stainless steel kitchen, with hanging copper pots and an army of cooks in pristine white chef coats, working with the precision of a Swiss timewatch.  In complete awe of what I was viewing I had no idea how much time had passed.

I made my way through the small aisles of Cotogna and up to the dining counter.  The bartender welcomed me and once again I was mesmerized by the cooks working up in the front.  The pizza cook was working hard on this night, stretching 15" pies by his hands.  Working over the counter, and then eventually stretching in mid-air, all even, and no holes.  Coming off a small stint at the pizza station of ABC Kitchen caused me to look for new techniques.

Hamachi Crudo with Celery and Apples

I started with one of the specials of the night, hamachi crudo.  This was presented very simply, and was a nice, light, fresh starter.  The hamachi was sliced and topped with apple, celery, olive oil, and chili flakes.  The freshness of the fish was the star here, and the apples and celery gave it a nice textural complement, as the chili flakes gave it that slight heat it needed.  Very good and balanced, but at $12, I honestly thought it was a little overpriced.

The next item is what made me swoon.  Housemade ricotta was warmed in a clay pot, topped with sauteed maitake mushrooms and served with toast.  The cheese had so much incredible flavor, and the fact that it was warm made me feel great on the inside.  The mushrooms added another depth of earthy flavor.  It is the best vegetarian dish I have ever had, and it was only 3 ingredients.

Warmed Ricotta with Wild Mushrooms and Toast

Knowing that Cotogna is known for its pastas, I decided to go with my favorite pasta next.  Gnocchi was paired with brussel sprouts and bacon.  Parmesan cheese coated the top, and mixed with the small amount of cooking liquid at the bottom of the bowl created a cheese sauce to bind the pasta.  The amazing flavors came through with every bite, and I appreciated the fact that it wasn't swimming in sauce.  I enjoyed this so much I almost asked for seconds.

Gnocchi with Brussel Sprouts and Bacon

Although simple, I can honestly say this was one of the best restaurant visits I have ever had.  But after being presented with the dessert menu I had an idea.  Seeing that Quince was right next door I decided to see if I could have dessert there instead.  I walked over and talked to the maitre d' and told them I had just enjoyed one of the best meals of my life at Cotogna and wanted to have dessert here.  I explained I knew I was underdressed, wearing jeans and a button-down, but she was not the slightest bit hesitant to let me sit in the 16-seat lounge.  Oh by the way, their "lounge" is made of long couches that are incredibly comfortable with small black cocktail tables and plush pillows.

The elegance flows through the whole dining room.  Also designed by Lindsay Tusk the black and off-white dining room is given a secluded feel with wall partitions separating it from the lounge and bar areas.  Beautiful flower arrangements, impressive artwork, and glass chandeliers offer a much more luxurious environment, and hard to believe is done by the same owners of the rustic restaurant just next door.

Quince's Cheese Cart

The only thing that could make this night better was going for a wine and cheese course, and Quince did not disappoint.  My server was flawless with his execution of service, rolling out a cheese cart and taking his time to explain all 20 cheeses offered.  Starting a conversation with him that I worked in the industry in NY, he decided it may be best if I had a little bit of the west coast and a little bit of home.

The finished cheese plate offered 2 cheeses from upstate NY, and 3 from the Bay Area.  He called it "East Coast vs. West Coast", and it was garnished with puree, gelee, and nuts.  Two styles of bread and crackers were served on the side.  Having this cheese course is what prevented me from enjoying the cheese course at Jardiniere which I dined at three days later.  Now you can understand why it seemed so plain.

"East Coast vs West Coast"

Artisanal Bread and Crackers

As I paid my bill my server was nice enough to send a complimentary petit-four tower from the kitchen.

Petit Four Tower

Even though just coming in for dessert my time was turned into a fantastic and unforgettable experience.  Michael and Lindsay, I will be spreading the word about you two to others for years to come.  I can't wait to return.

Cotogna

490 Pacific Avenue

San Francisco, CA 94133

Quince

470 Pacific Avenue

San Francisco, CA 94133